Ladies Afternoon Costumes - 146 T and 147 T - 1900
Described on Page 441 and 442 | For Illustrations see Page 427
Ladies Afternoon Costume No. 146 T
Figure No. 146 T.—This unites a Ladies’ Basque-blouse and skirt.
This stylish costume will prove acceptable for dressy afternoon wear when calling, driving, etc., and is hero developed in figured silk crépon and panne velvet of a contrasting color combined with plain Liberty silk.
The Basque-blouse or bodice has a stretched back and possesses many becoming features, one of the most conspicuous being the bolero fronts which meet at the bust over the full, pouching fronts and are ornamented with bands of black satin piped with the panne.
The large, fancy collar, which frames the full fronts in V effect and is shallowest at the back, is finished by a doubled frill of dark Liberty silk. A similar decoration decorates the turn-back cuff which completes the upper portion of the “1850” sleeve.
The full under-sleeve is shirred at the wrist to form a frill that falls over the hand. The tucked stock rises to a point at the back, and a crush belt is worn.
The skirt is five-gored and shows an admirable disposal of its fullness in groups of tucks at the sides and back. The pleats terminate at graduated depths, and the fulness flares gracefully at the foot.
The skirt has the fashionable dip at the top, which may be decided or conventional, and is made with a short sweep.
Any soft silk, cotton or woolen fabrics will prove desirable for reproducing the skirt, and the bodice will appear to best advantage developed in a combination of materials.
A beautiful costume may be developed in this style of light voile or vailing with silk muslin or other diaphanous material for the full fronts and under-sleeves all-over lace for the large, fancy collar and cuffs.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4399 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is also pictured on page 444.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4388 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in seven sizes from twenty to thirty-two inches, waist measure, and is again shown on page 459.
Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice No. 4399
No. 4399 Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice with Stretched Back and Bolero Fronts. (To Be Made with an “1850” Sleeve, or a Plain Sleeve with a Flare Cuff.)
For Description see Page 452 | For Illustrations see Pape 444
Another view of this blouse may be had by referring to figure No. 146T in this magazine.
A charming effect is achieved in the present development of the blouse, dark- green cloth and white Liberty silk being combined with narrow black braid, lace applique and bias frills of dark-green panne velvet for decoration.
The mode is quite dressy and has a broad, stretched back and jaunty bolero-fronts which are finished with a fancy collar that extends across the top of the back.
The bolero fronts round away above and below the bust to display the full, pouching fronts arranged on the dart-fitted lining. A silk cord is tacked under the ends of the collar and secures the bolero fronts at the bust.
The sleeves may be of the plain two-seam variety finished with fancy flare cuffs or in quaint “1850” style, having a loose one-seam upper part finished at the elbow with a deep turn-back cuff and a full under-sleeve shirred to form a frill about the wrist.
The full sleeve reaches to the shoulder and is mounted on a two-seam lining. A standing collar that deepens to a point at the back and over which a tucked stock is adjusted gives completion to the neck, and a narrow ribbon belt is worn.
Ä pleasing result could be obtained if dark-blue vailing and white embroidered batiste be employed for the development with Russian applique for the large fancy collar and the cuffs.
We have pattern No. 4399 in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure.
To make the Basque-blouse for a lady of medium size will require a yard and one-fourth of goods fifty inches wide with a yard and seven-eighths of fabric forty-five inches wide, for the stock, full front and under-sleeves.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Five-Gored Foundation Skirt No. 4388
No. 4388 Ladies’ Skirt: consisting of a Five-Gored Foundation Skirt and a Five-Gored Tucked Skirt. (To be made with the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and in Round or Short-Sweep Length at the Bottom.)
For Description see Page 463 | For Illustrations see Page 458
By referring to Figures Nos. 146 T and 161 T in this magazine this skirt may be again observed.
Clusters of tucks stitched to graduated depths characterize the gracefully designed skirt, which is here shown developed in pastel-blue crepe de Chine over a foundation of glace taffeta in a somewhat deeper shade. Black lace barbs afford rich and becoming decoration.
Both the skirt proper and the foundation are five-gored and may be made in round or short-sweep length. The tucks are stitched to graduated depths below which they fall unconfined to the lower edge, where the mode flares attractively.
At the top of the front, a dip that may be conventional or more decided gives additional grace to the skirt, which falls in an outline of about four yards in the medium sizes.
Lady’s-cloth in Nile-green with barbs of yellow lace for decoration will reproduce the mode well. Vailing, cashmere, light-weight cloth, taffeta and such fabrics are used in the development of skirts of this style with lace appliqu6, braid, etc., for trimming.
We have pattern No. 4388 in seven sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-two inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty- two and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip. Requires six yards of goods forty-four inches wide.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
Ladies’ Afternoon Costume No. 147 T
Figure No. 147 T.—This embraces a Ladies’ Basque- blouse and skirt.
A Basque-blouse or bodice of unusual attractiveness forms part of the costume here shown developed in a combination of grayish-blue satin-faced broadcloth of lightweight, blue taffeta and panne velvet and white silk mull.
The yoke-bolero gives novelty to the bodice and has a scalloped lower edge that overlaps the tucked lower portion.
In this instance, the scalloped effect is emphasized by a strapping of the material, which is not provided for in the pattern but may be easily shaped by following the lower outline of the yoke-bolero.
The bodice has a full vest and puffs out prettily in front, and the yoke-bolero is turned back in front to form pointed rovers; fancy sleeves contribute to the becomingness of the mode.
The close-fitting over-sleeves flare in points at the wrist over short, full under-sleeves completed with tucked straight cuffs. A tucked stock and a belt of the panne complete the bodice, which shows the fashionable dip in the front.
The seven-gored flare skirt is of the newest shaping and introduces a fashionable feature in the inverted box-plait at the lower part of each side seam.
The fullness at the back is disposed of in an inverted double box-plait, and the skirt may be made with the conventional or a decided dip at the top in front, according to preference. Straps of the cloth cover the seams at the front and sides and end in points at the top of the box-plaits.
The costume may be duplicated in a variety of fashionable fabrics, such as whipcord, crepe de Chine, vailing, Eolienne, brilliantine, fine serge, etc., and the revers may be faced with all-over lace or decorated with braid or applique lace.
The blouse favors a combination of fabrics or colors and the decoration may be simple or elaborate.
The blouse pattern, which is No. 4382 and costs 10d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty- two inches, bust measure, and is also pictured on page 445.
The skirt pattern, which is No. 4397 and costs 1s. or 25 cents, is in nine sizes from twenty to thirty-six inches, waist measure, and is differently portrayed on page 455.
Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice No. 4382
For Description see Page 453 | For Illustrations see Page 445
Another view of this blouse may be had by referring to figure No. 147 T in this number of The Delineator, where it is shown in a different development.
Striking features of this blouse are the deep yoke-bolero and the popular dip in the front.
In the present development of the blouse gray crepe de Chine, gray panne and white chiffon were combined with black velvet baby-ribbon and an embroidery design done in gray and pink silk and steel spangles for decoration.
The deep yoke-bolero is fitted perfectly smooth and is turned back in revers at the front, where it is deepest; it is scalloped at the lower edge and overlaps the tucked lower portions, the fronts of which are gathered at the bottom and pouch attractively.
The fronts flare stylishly to reveal a full, pouching vest, which reaches to the shoulder and closes at the left side.
The sleeves are moderately fanciful, having close-fitting two-seam over-sleeves reaching to within a short distance of the wrist, where they flare in points to reveal full, short, under-sleeves completed with narrow round cuffs; a collar of the chiffon tucked, and a belt of velvet finish the neck and blouse respectively, and a fitted lining gives the garment support.
Mode lady’s-cloth will combine well with tucked taffeta in this blouse, and appliques of Russian lace will supply rich and effective decoration. Nile-green cashmere or vailing will be attractive in combination with yellow silk, and white chiffon, the sleeves and yoke being decorated with appliques of yellow lace.
Black grenadine and spangled net over mauve Liberty satin would combine beautifully in a dinner blouse for a matron, and folds of panne velvet may supply ornamentation.
We have pattern No. 4382 in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure.
To make the blouse for a lady of medium size, requires two yards and one-half of goods twenty inches wide for the over-sleeves, yoke, bolero and facing with seven-eighths of a yard of fabric thirty inches wide for the tucked fronts and tucked back, and a yard and three-eighths of goods forty-five inches wide, for the vest, under-sleeves, cuffs and outside of collar.
Price of pattern, 10d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Seven-Gored Flare Skirt No. 4397
No. 4397 Ladies’ Seven-Gored Flare Skirt, having an Inverted Box-Plait at the Lower Part of each Side Seam, and an Inverted Double Box- Plait at the Back. (To be made with the Conventional or a Decided Dip at the Top and in Round or Short-Sweep Length at the Bottom.)
For Description see Page 461 | For Illustrations see Page 455
By referring to figures Nos. 147 T and 150 T in this number of The Delineator, this skirt may be again observed.
The desirable flare produced by the introduction of an inverted box-plait at the lower part of each side seam and the sheath effect at the top is pronounced characteristics of the seven-gored skirt here illustrated developed in zinc-colored cloth with self-strappings for decoration.
The skirt is shaped to fit perfectly smooth at the top without the use of darts and may have the conventional or decided dip in front, according to individual fancy.
The fullness at the back is disposed of in an inverted double box-plait that falls in graceful folds to the lower edge, where the skirt falls in an outline of about four yards in the medium sizes. The skirt may be in round or short-sweep length.
A fashionable skirt may be developed in magenta wool poplin with a decoration of black guipure. Mohair, serge, Cheviot, English suiting, homespun, Venetian and Jady’s-cloth, are appropriate for reproduction by the mode.
We have pattern No. 4397 in nine sizes for ladies from twenty to thirty-six inches waist, or thirty-seven to fifty-eight and one-half inches hip measure.
To make the skirt of material with figure or nap, not including strappings, for a lady of twenty-four inches waist or forty-one inches hip, requires six yards forty-four inches wide; including strappings to trim, five yards and one-half fifty inches wide.
Of goods without figure or nap, not including strappings, it needs four yards and one-half forty-four inches wide; including strappings to trim, four yards and one-eighth fifty inches wide.
Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
"Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 427, 441-442, 444-445, 452-453, 455, 458, 461, 463
Editor's Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.