Vintage Summer Hat Styles for 1901
Plate 1: Featured Summer Hat Styles Nos. 1-4. The Delineator, June 1901. GGA Image ID # 16004ee5e6
Figure No. 1.—This white Leghorn straw hat has the wide brim bent in becoming curves and is trimmed with violets, foliage and a drapery of chiffon. The violets are arranged in wreath effect against the foliage around the crown, which is low and flat. A chou of the chiffon is brought up over the brim in front and also rests in a soft twist against the hair at the right side. A wreath of roses may replace the violets, if preferred.
Figure No. 2.—Pale-blue chiffon was employed to make this approved model, being draped in soft folds over the wire frame; the crown is not discernable. The becoming flare at the left side results from the bandeau placed underneath, on which foliage is massed. A large bunch of apple blossoms and foliage is disposed on the edge of the flaring brim. This hat would be stylish in black tulle or chiffon, or alternate row's of black horsehair braid and white tulle. Black and white roses might be used instead of the apple blossoms.
Figure No. 3.—Hats of the shape here shown are stylish and generally becoming. Tucked rose-pink chiffon is used to make the present example, in which the brim is rolled and is flared at the left side, and the crown low and flat. Large shaded-pink roses are arranged in a garland around the crown and rest on the edge of the rolled brim. The hat may be appropriately worn with airy Summer gowns for dressy occasions, and will be equally effective made in white chiffon or tulle, with white or pink roses for the trimming.
Figure No. 4.—There is a distinctive air of good style in this hat, which suggests the walking shape. It is made of black Neapolitan straw and adorned with large pale-yellow roses. The brim is rolled at each side, and about the low crown the roses are arranged, being massed closely at the front. This hat will be suitable for dressy as well as general wear, and the color scheme whatever individual taste directs. White or black roses with yellow centers would be a pleasing substitute for the yellow ones, and the straw might be black or deep-ecru.
Plate 2: Summer Hat Styles for Women Nos. 5-13. The Delineator, June 1901. GGA Image ID # 160054d14f
Figure No. 5.—In this fancy straw hat, in modified walking shape, the crown is slightly belled, and the brim flares high at the left side. Tucked chiffon is arranged around the crown and is caught at the center of the front with a buckle. Two long, curling quills fall over the edge of the brim from the front to the back.
Figure No. 6.—Rough straw in a deep-éeru shade was used to make this pretty sailor, fancy satin ribbon in black and white being folded around the crown and tied in a wide-spreading bow in front. The model is appropriate for all ordinary wear.
Figure No. 7.—The draped crown is the distinctive feature of this seasonable hat constructed of soft, pliable straw, the brim of which is rolled and slightly Hared at the left side. A ribbon bow and fancy aigrette, disposed a little toward the left of the front, provide ornamentation ; and roses rest on a bandeau at the left side.
Figure No. 8.—This stylish hat is made of fancy straw. The crown is round and flat, and the brim turned up straight all around, flaring slightly at the left side where is arranged a bandeau on which rosettes of velvet ribbon are disposed. Velvet ribbon encircles the crown and is knotted at the centre of the front. Two curling quills fall over toward the back from the velvet knot in front. Black and white and écru and black are pleasing combinations in which to reproduce this model.
Figure No. 9.—This toque is made of pliable horsehair braid and is draped all over. The trimming consists of a fancy ornament disposed at the left side toward the back and three large roses that rest on the hair at the left side.
Figure No. 10.—The picture type is suggested in this large hat of black Neapolitan straw. The crown is low and the brim wide and flared at the left side. Roses arranged on the right side encircle the crown and are also massed against the flaring brim at the left side, and foliage is disposed in a plume-like arrangement extending from the center of the front to the back and following the edge of the brim.
Figure No. 11.— Black chiffon was employed in the construction of this approved model. The brim is rolled and flared at the left side, and the crown is perfectly flat. Lace is arranged over the rolling brim, and a knot of chiffon passed through a buckle secures a bunch of lilacs against the brim. A chou of chiffon rests on the top of the hat at the right side of the front. The hat would be pretty in white chiffon with black plumes.
Figure No. 12.—This Panama straw sailor is particularly suitable for general wear. The edge of the straight round brim is bound with velvet, and wide Liberty satin is simply folded around the crown and tied in a wide spreading bow at the center of the front; a fancy ornament is disposed over the knot. Rosettes of ribbon are arranged on a bandeau beneath the brim at the left side toward the back.
Figure No. 13.—Cuban straw was used to make this attractive round hat. the brim of which is wide and slightly rolled on the edge. Polka-dotted ribbon is arranged around the crown, and a bow of the ribbon is disposed a little toward the left side of the front. Curling quills are thrust through the knot and fall gracefully over the bow. The hat will be generally becoming and is appropriate for street as well as outing wear.
Summer Millinery Styles for 1901
Variety is the feature of the newest millinery and is expressed in materials, color combinations, flowers, foliage and ornamental fancies. Seemingly the present demand is to combine in a hat as many materials as possible.
With the multiplicity in styles it is impossible for any model to occupy the field to the exclusion of all others, though if there be one type of hat that is in higher favor, it is the round, flat mushroom shape with the crown only a trifle higher than the brim, which is perfectly straight around and flared at the left side, where the trimming is disposed.
These creations are fashioned from tulle, chiffon and mousseline de soie, while the latest device is to associate these textiles with Neapolitan and horsehair braids. Alternate rows of the lacy straw and diaphanous fabric are one of fancies expressed in this combination, while in others the crown may be made of tulle or chiffon, finely tucked, and the brim of straw, with a facing of the tulle or chiffon.
The Tuscan, Leghorn, Cuban and Panama straws arc popular and are fashioned into new and becoming shapes; cither the straw is used for the entire hat, or a textile is introduced. Irregular-shaped toques, Spanish turbans and the becoming round hat are evolved from these straws and are trimmed with masses of foliage and flowers, and in almost every instance there is a bit of black velvet ribbon.
The Neapolitan and very open horsehair weaves are particularly adaptable for Summer wear and suggest fascinating picture bats, while the Leghorn is a close rival. Some of the examples made of this fine, pliable straw are very picturesque. A bed of roses is suggested in some of the toques made entirely of these flowers, which hold first place in decorative fancies.
Great full-blown roses in the delicate shades of pink and yellow and also gorgeous rich reds are massed with those of impossible hues— blue, black and dull wood-brown—in one hat, while further distinction may be achieved by a bit of foliage in the bright, fresh greens or rich Autumn tints.
A noteworthy feature in up-to-date millinery is the lavish use of grapes, currants and cherries. In some examples of this fruit ornamentation the entire brim, which to be perfectly approved must be slightly rolled, is formed of bundles of deep purple, dull-red and white grapes, the large grape leaves, frosted, covering the low crown.
The brim may be faced with white tulle to insure becomingness. The fruit and foliage combination was well expressed in an imported model ; the crown was very low and the brim rather wide and flared at the left side.
The entire wire frame was covered with wood-brown tulle, and frosted grape leaves were closely disposed over the crown, while the beautifully tinted grapes, arranged in clusters, rested on the brim, the edge of which was finished with very small leaves. Tulle, finely tucked, was used for the facing.
A huge rosette of Liberty satin ribbon in a dull-green tint resembling réséda was placed on the edge of the brim at the left side toward the front, with one end brought over against the flaring brim, and was secured by a smaller rosette of the rich ribbon.
The harmonious blending of the somewhat somber colors is the chief charm of this stylish hat, which may be worn with a variety of costumes. The effectiveness of the turquoise and black combination was exemplified in a hat made of a pliable straw braid in the former shade, shaped with a draped low crown and indented brim.
Black velvet ribbon was cleverly twisted in and out of the slits made in the brim and was brought up on top v»f the hat, at the left side, where it was formed into an Alsatian bow that reached from the front to the back, two ends and two short loops falling over the brim on the hair.
Finely lucked tulle in a shade lighter than the straw was used to face the brim, the edge of which was followed by a wreath of black daisies having yellow centers. A bandeau was placed at the left side to tilt the hat slightly, and the daisies were thickly massed upon it.
Another creation showing this rather trying shade of blue was of Milan straw, shaped in approved style. The crown was low, and the brim rolled at the edge and dared at the left side. For trimming, roses in a light-blue tint, shading almost to white, were closely arranged over the brim, and black Chantilly lace was draped over them and also provided the brim facing. Two short black ostrich plumes were disposed against the flaring brim at the left side and rested softly on the hair.
Alternate rows of écru fancy straw braid and white crêpe form the low broad crown in a new hat. The brim is rolled and overlaid with soft folds of mousseline in an écru tint, having tiny flecks of white satiny straw thickly scattered over it.
There is a becoming flare at the left side, and a broad bow of the straw braid, tucked crêpe and straw-flecked mousseline, through which black velvet ribbon is artistically twisted, rests over the edge of the brim, from the front to the back, while against the flared brim are disposed small bunches of blackberries with a bit of foliage; a black velvet bow falls on the hair.
Bands of Leghorn and yellow velvet ribbon are effectively alternated in a handsome hat of which the crown is low and slightly draped, the wide brim being bent into artistic curves and indentations.
Two rosettes of pale-yellow chiffon, suggesting large tea-roses in their snaps and coloring, are disposed at the left side, one falling over the edge of the brim and the other resting on a bed of shaded dull-brown and pale-yellow leaves; at the right side, toward the front, three of these rosettes made of the chiffon are hunched together with the leaves, and a bow of velvet ribbon matching that employed in making the hat is arranged across the crown at the back.
A charming hat of the Gainsborough type is made of black horsehair braid veiled in white tulle arranged in soft, graceful folds. At the left side, where the wide brim dares prettily, full-blown shaded pink roses are banked, and loose knots of pastel ribbon being intermingled with them. The brim is faced with finely tucked white tulle, the edge being of the black horsehair braid.
Three of the roses, with foliage, are laid against the crown at the right side, and two rosettes formed of the delicately tinted ribbon are arranged at the center of the front in an imported model are expressed the fashionable wood colors in the horsehair braid and tulle employed to make the hat, as well as in the roses that provide the trimming.
The flat, low crown is formed of the lace-like straw braid in a grayish-brown tint, and the brim facing is also of the straw braid, arranged in tacked effect, while the upper part is of tucked tulle in a rich wood-brown hue. An Alsatian bow of velvet ribbon in the wood-brown shade is placed directly in front, the knot being secured to the crown and the ends brought over each side of the brim.
At the left side roses in a dull wood-brown hue and sere yellow roses are disposed against the flaring brim. Dull- brown foliage is mingled with the roses. Both utility and good style are embraced in this mode, and a more fitting accompaniment to a wood-brown vailing or a mercerized linen gown could scarcely be imagined.
The stylish black-and-white combination is carried out in a new turban of fine black Neapolitan straw. The crown is low, and the brim flares at the left side. A wreath of black roses is arranged on top of the brim, while white roses entirely cover the brim underneath. Black roses are disposed against the flaring brim, and three white roses resting beneath on a bandeau complete the elaborate floral decoration.
Light and summery in tone is a large picture hat made of white horsehair braid, satin straw forming a heavy cord on each of what seem to be tucks. The brim is rather wide and droops at the right side and over the face, while it is indented and flared at the left side.
Loose, soft folds of white arranged gracefully around the crown and knotted at the left side of the front secure the end of a wreath-like arrangement of wild roses which rests on the billowy tulle and is brought around the crown to the left side of the back, where the trailing ends fall almost to the shoulder.
The roses, with their foliage, are massed against tfie flaring brim, which is veiled by the tulle. The hat would be charming worn with a dainty organdy or mull gown.
A distinct innovation is found in a white Panama hat of the popular round shape, in the decoration of which white mohair Swiss embroidered in black is introduced.
The Swiss is arranged perfectly smooth over the crown and also the straight brim, the edge of which is neatly finished with an overlapping piece of the straw. A black velvet band encircles the crown, and a bunch of pink rose buds and green leaves gives becoming height at the left side.
A trailing thorny stem rests against the severe velvet band in front. The novelty of this hat, which is especially suitable for wear with dainty linen and piqué dresses, will at once establish it in favor with those who demand original effects.
A white straw hat of the shepherdess type, with geraniums and white Liberty-satin ribbon as ornamentation, had a rather wide brim that drooped prettily at the front and back and was curved at each side. The bright-colored blossoms were thickly disposed beneath the brim at each side, and the soft wide ribbon was arranged in a bandspreading bow which was placed directly on top of the low slightly belled crown, each loop being secured flat to the edge of the brim at the sides. The simplicity of this model adapts it for youthful wearers.
"Summer Millinery," in The Delineator, June 1901, pp. 944-947.