Ladies Fashionable Mourning Attire - 1900
For Fashionable Mourning. Nos. 158 T and 159 T. Ladies' Jacket and Skirt; and No. 160 T. Ladies' Eton Blouse and Skirt. The Delineator, October 1900. GGA Image ID # 21787dfc71
No. 158 T: Ladies' Jacket and Skirt
This mourning dress, with its graceful shaping, is not only practical for outdoor wear but also exudes an air of elegance. The development process involved the use of fine black Cheviot, with Persian lamb adding a luxurious touch to the collar and fronts of the jacket. Rows of machine stitching provide a neat finish to the ensemble, enhancing its overall appeal.
The skirt, in its five-gored style with a short sweep, is designed to flatter and enhance your figure. Its versatility is evident in the narrow side gates and a band flounce that flares slightly and is circular, making it suitable for various occasions and settings.
An inverted box-plait disposes of the fulness at the back, and the mode shows the fashionable dip at the top.
The long effect from shoulder to bust—a prominent feature of the newest jackets—emphasizes the natty top garment here shown made of satin-faced cloth with Persian lamb and dark velvet combined with chinchilla fur.
The model, known as the 'Jacket Sans Revers ', is a popular style that reaches a short distance below the waistline. It is snugly adjusted at the back and sides by the regulation seams and gores, the center-back seam terminating to form a vent.
The fronts have the slightest suggestion of a point at the lower edge and are semi-tight-fitting; they may be lapped to the throat and closed in double-breasted style, worn open and rolled as shown in one of the large front views, or closed only at the throat and rolled as shown in the small illustration.
A high, sectional collar that hares at the throat gives the mode a touch, and the closely adjusted sleeves may bell over the hand or be straight around.
Broadcloth, covert, Venetian, and all suitable tailor cloths may be used to reproduce the jacket with fur for the collar and for facing the fronts.
Dressmaker Options
For those who prefer a more unique style, consider a hunter’s green cloth combined with mink. This combination would not only develop a stylish and serviceable jacket but also allow for a personalized touch. The closing could be accomplished with cord loops and olives, adding to the overall aesthetic.
An attractive jacket could be made of dark-brown or black lightweight melton. The finish may be plain, or braid or narrow fur bindings may be added.
Ladies' Five-Gored Skirt
The five-gored skirt, illustrated in magenta Venetian cloth finished with machine-stitching, distinguishes itself by a narrow gore at each side and a band flounce.
The skirt is fitted at the top by a single hip dart at each side and has the fulness at the back laid in an inverted box-plait. At the bottom, the skirt flares gracefully and is relieved of severe plainness by a slightly circular band flounce.
The skirt may have a conventional or a decided dip at the top, according to the style most liked, and is short-sweep length at the bottom, where it measures about four yards in the medium sizes.
Dressmaker Options
Modish skirts may be reproduced by the design of satin Liberty cloth, vailing cashmere, voile, etc., and decoration of applique lace, braid, or embroidered bands may be added.
No. 159 T. Ladies' Jacket and Skirt
Self-strappings give this outfit, which is here pictured made of black cheviot, a neat and tailor-like finish. The coat or jacket is gracefully adjusted.
The skirt is of comfortable walking length and, in this instance, is made with a seam at the center of the front and back. It may be in one piece and is equally appropriate for cycling, golfing, etc., where it is developed for evening wear for a young girl.
Dressmaker Options
Double-faced cloth would develop the skirt stylishly, and melton or any of the fashionable coatings may be used for the coat with fur for decoration or a plain finish of stitching.
Ladies’ One or Two-Piece Circular Skirt
This is a circular skirt for women, available in one or two-piece styles, and with an inverted box-plait at the back. It comes in either instep or shorter length and can have a conventional or a more pronounced dip at the top. Both plaids and patterned fabrics are suitable for shopping, cycling, golfing, ice skating, and stormy weather.
Practical women recognize the advantages of wearing a slightly shortened skirt, and this garment is considered an essential part of any well-ordered outfit. The skirt has a dart-fitted design over the hips and is cut in one piece but can be made in a two-piece style with a seam at the center of the front and back if desired.
It features a dip at the top of the front that may be conventional or more pronounced, and there is fullness at the back laid in an under-folded box-plait, which is stitched for a short distance. The skirt ripples and becomes full at the lower edge.
It measures about three yards in medium size and can be made in either instep or shorter length. This skirt is particularly suitable for touring, shopping, stormy weather wear, and outdoor sports of all kinds. It is equally suitable for both plaids and patterned fabrics as it is for plain goods.
Dressmaker Options
The favorite color for golfing skirts is very dark iron-gray or black. Oxford suiting will develop the mode stylishly.
Ladies’ Double-Breasted Coat or Jacket
A coat that's designed according to the latest fashion trends is featured here. It's crafted from fine cloth and finished with precise stitching. The back and sides of the coat fit snugly, while the front is semi-tight and secured in a double-breasted style with buttons and buttonholes.
The pointed lapels extend beyond the ends of the rolling collar above the closing. The darts and side-back seams form rounded vents, but they can be continued to the bottom to create a straight-around outline if desired.
Low pockets covered with flaps are inserted in the front, while the sleeves are in a close-fitting two-seam style, completed with turn-back cuffs corresponding with the lower edge of the jacket.
Dressmaker Options
Cheviot, covert cloth, broadcloth, and other tailor fabrics are suitable for making coats of this kind. Machine stitching or strapping can give a desirable finish.
No. 160 T. Ladies' Eton Blouse and Skirt
This outfit is made of heavy black serge fabric with grosgrain silk used for the vest front and standing collar. The outfit is decorated with strappings of the same fabric and silk, and machine stitching.
The Eton blouse has a smooth back and a full front that pours prettily. The front of the blouse is reversed broadly to form a deep sailor collar, and the sleeves are plain two-seam style.
The skirt has five-gores and is designed to be worn in a short length. This outfit can be made attractively in Henrietta or wool poplin, with taffeta used for the vest front, collar, and strappings.
Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt
This is a trendy skirt design for women that can be worn on various occasions such as shopping, touring, golfing, ice skating, stormy weather, and more.
The skirt is available in instep or shorter length and has a conventional or decided dip at the top, depending on personal preference. Made of double-faced cloth, the skirt has a five-gored style with machine-stitched strappings of the material.
It is fitted smoothly over the hips without the use of darts and has fullness at the center of the back, with an inverted box plait that is stitched for a short distance from the top.
The adjustment at the top creates a fashionable close effect, while the extra width allowed at the lower part of each side seam for inverted box plaits gives the stylish flare at the bottom. This is a feature of the newest fashion trends. For medium sizes, the skirt falls in an outline of about three and a half yards.
Dressmaker Options
A serviceable skirt could be made from lightweight double-faced covert cloth with machine stitching for the finish.
Based on the Article "Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 402, 443, 451, 461-464.
