Ladies Fashionable Mourning Attire - 1900

For Fashionable Mourning. Nos. 158 T and 159 T. Ladies' Jacket and Skirt; and No. 160 T. Ladies' Eton Blouse and Skirt. The Delineator, October 1900. GGA Image ID # 21787dfc71

No. 158 T: Ladies' Jacket and Skirt

This mourning dress, with its graceful shaping, is not only practical for outdoor wear but also exudes an air of elegance. The development process involved the use of fine black Cheviot, with Persian lamb adding a luxurious touch to the collar and fronts of the jacket. Rows of machine stitching provide a neat finish to the ensemble, enhancing its overall appeal.

The skirt, in its five-gored style with a short sweep, is designed to flatter and enhance your figure. Its versatility is evident in the narrow side gates and a band flounce that flares slightly and is circular, making it suitable for various occasions and settings.

An inverted box-plait disposes of the fulness at the back, and the mode shows the fashionable dip at the top.

The long effect from shoulder to bust—a prominent feature of the newest jackets—emphasizes the natty top garment here shown made of satin-faced cloth with Persian lamb and dark velvet combined with chinchilla fur.

The model, known as the 'Jacket Sans Revers ', is a popular style that reaches a short distance below the waistline. It is snugly adjusted at the back and sides by the regulation seams and gores, the center-back seam terminating to form a vent.

The fronts have the slightest suggestion of a point at the lower edge and are semi-tight-fitting; they may be lapped to the throat and closed in double-breasted style, worn open and rolled as shown in one of the large front views, or closed only at the throat and rolled as shown in the small illustration.

A high, sectional collar that hares at the throat gives the mode a touch, and the closely adjusted sleeves may bell over the hand or be straight around.

Broadcloth, covert, Venetian, and all suitable tailor cloths may be used to reproduce the jacket with fur for the collar and for facing the fronts.

Dressmaker Options

For those who prefer a more unique style, consider a hunter’s green cloth combined with mink. This combination would not only develop a stylish and serviceable jacket but also allow for a personalized touch. The closing could be accomplished with cord loops and olives, adding to the overall aesthetic.

An attractive jacket could be made of dark-brown or black lightweight melton. The finish may be plain, or braid or narrow fur bindings may be added.

Ladies' Five-Gored Skirt

The five-gored skirt, illustrated in magenta Venetian cloth finished with machine-stitching, distinguishes itself by a narrow gore at each side and a band flounce.

The skirt is fitted at the top by a single hip dart at each side and has the fulness at the back laid in an inverted box-plait. At the bottom, the skirt flares gracefully and is relieved of severe plainness by a slightly circular band flounce.

The skirt may have a conventional or a decided dip at the top, according to the style most liked, and is short-sweep length at the bottom, where it measures about four yards in the medium sizes.

Dressmaker Options

Modish skirts may be reproduced by the design of satin Liberty cloth, vailing cashmere, voile, etc., and decoration of applique lace, braid, or embroidered bands may be added.

No. 159 T. Ladies' Jacket and Skirt

Self-strappings give this outfit, which is here pictured made of black cheviot, a neat and tailor-like finish. The coat or jacket is gracefully adjusted.

The skirt is of comfortable walking length and, in this instance, is made with a seam at the center of the front and back. It may be in one piece and is equally appropriate for cycling, golfing, etc., where it is developed for evening wear for a young girl.

Dressmaker Options

Double-faced cloth would develop the skirt stylishly, and melton or any of the fashionable coatings may be used for the coat with fur for decoration or a plain finish of stitching.

Ladies’ One or Two-Piece Circular Skirt

This is a circular skirt for women, available in one or two-piece styles, and with an inverted box-plait at the back. It comes in either instep or shorter length and can have a conventional or a more pronounced dip at the top. Both plaids and patterned fabrics are suitable for shopping, cycling, golfing, ice skating, and stormy weather.

Practical women recognize the advantages of wearing a slightly shortened skirt, and this garment is considered an essential part of any well-ordered outfit. The skirt has a dart-fitted design over the hips and is cut in one piece but can be made in a two-piece style with a seam at the center of the front and back if desired.

It features a dip at the top of the front that may be conventional or more pronounced, and there is fullness at the back laid in an under-folded box-plait, which is stitched for a short distance. The skirt ripples and becomes full at the lower edge.

It measures about three yards in medium size and can be made in either instep or shorter length. This skirt is particularly suitable for touring, shopping, stormy weather wear, and outdoor sports of all kinds. It is equally suitable for both plaids and patterned fabrics as it is for plain goods.

Dressmaker Options

The favorite color for golfing skirts is very dark iron-gray or black. Oxford suiting will develop the mode stylishly.

Ladies’ Double-Breasted Coat or Jacket

A coat that's designed according to the latest fashion trends is featured here. It's crafted from fine cloth and finished with precise stitching. The back and sides of the coat fit snugly, while the front is semi-tight and secured in a double-breasted style with buttons and buttonholes.

The pointed lapels extend beyond the ends of the rolling collar above the closing. The darts and side-back seams form rounded vents, but they can be continued to the bottom to create a straight-around outline if desired.

Low pockets covered with flaps are inserted in the front, while the sleeves are in a close-fitting two-seam style, completed with turn-back cuffs corresponding with the lower edge of the jacket.

Dressmaker Options

Cheviot, covert cloth, broadcloth, and other tailor fabrics are suitable for making coats of this kind. Machine stitching or strapping can give a desirable finish.

No. 160 T. Ladies' Eton Blouse and Skirt

This outfit is made of heavy black serge fabric with grosgrain silk used for the vest front and standing collar. The outfit is decorated with strappings of the same fabric and silk, and machine stitching.

The Eton blouse has a smooth back and a full front that pours prettily. The front of the blouse is reversed broadly to form a deep sailor collar, and the sleeves are plain two-seam style.

The skirt has five-gores and is designed to be worn in a short length. This outfit can be made attractively in Henrietta or wool poplin, with taffeta used for the vest front, collar, and strappings.

Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt

This is a trendy skirt design for women that can be worn on various occasions such as shopping, touring, golfing, ice skating, stormy weather, and more.

The skirt is available in instep or shorter length and has a conventional or decided dip at the top, depending on personal preference. Made of double-faced cloth, the skirt has a five-gored style with machine-stitched strappings of the material.

It is fitted smoothly over the hips without the use of darts and has fullness at the center of the back, with an inverted box plait that is stitched for a short distance from the top.

The adjustment at the top creates a fashionable close effect, while the extra width allowed at the lower part of each side seam for inverted box plaits gives the stylish flare at the bottom. This is a feature of the newest fashion trends. For medium sizes, the skirt falls in an outline of about three and a half yards.

Dressmaker Options

A serviceable skirt could be made from lightweight double-faced covert cloth with machine stitching for the finish.

Based on the Article "Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 402, 443, 451, 461-464.

161 T: Ladies Fashionable Mourning Basque Blouse and Skirt

Despite its long-lasting popularity, the bolero still receives flattering attention and promises to appear in many attractive styles during the present season. The fancy design of the one forming part of the blouse embraced in this costume is innovative and flattering.

It is shaped to effectively expose the blouse's smooth back and full fronts, and is extended in strap fashion in front. A standing collar finishes the neck, and the two-seam sleeves are of close adjustment and creatively shaped at the wrist.

The skirt is an exceptionally attractive model. In this instance, the development is made effective by the combination of dull-black Henrietta and crepe lisse with rosettes and folds of crape for decoration.

Dressmaker Options

By using plissé crepon and tucked chiffon, you can create a beautiful gown for a deep mourning occasion. The versatility of this outfit can be further enhanced by using a combination of materials such as Henrietta, nun's veiling, crape cloth, and any dull-finished woolen, which can be paired with taffeta or crape to achieve a stunning result.

Ladies’ Five-Gored Foundation Skirt

The ladies' skirt is made up of two parts - a Five-Gored Foundation Skirt and a Five-Gored Tucked Skirt. It can be made with a Conventional or Decided Dip at the Top and a Round or Short-Sweep Length at the Bottom.

The skirt is elegantly designed with clusters of tucks that are stitched to graduated depths. The skirt is shown here in a pastel-blue crepe de Chine fabric over a foundation of glace taffeta in a slightly deeper shade. Black lace barbs are used as decoration to give a rich and sophisticated look. Both the skirt and foundation are five-gored and can be made at round or short-sweep lengths.

The tucks are stitched to graduated depths below, which fall unconfined to the lower edge, where the mode flares attractively. At the top of the front, there is a dip that can be either conventional or more pronounced to add additional grace to the skirt, which falls in an outline of about four yards in the medium sizes.

Dressmaker Options

A skirt that reproduces the current fashion trend can be made using light fabrics like vailing, cashmere, lightweight cloth, and taffeta. Nile green with yellow lace barbs can be used for decoration. Also, trimmings like lace appliqué, braid, etc., can be added to enhance the look of the skirt.

162 T: Ladies Fashionable Mourning Ladies’ Blouse and Skirt

This outfit is perfect for both dinner and dressy at-home wear. It is made of black crepe de Chine fabric, combined with black net and chiffon ruchings. The blouse features a low, rounded back and a hut-shaped front that forms a V shape.

It has slight pleating in the lower part of the back and gracefully drapes at the bottom. The mode's attractiveness is enhanced by a fanciful sectional bertha and a soft drapery section around the neck that extends down the fronts. The elbow sleeves are short enough to reveal a drooping puff of the net.

The skirt has the same number of gores as the blouse and is distinguished by a five-gored tunic. The tunic has a fancy outline at the bottom and is short enough to reveal a flounce arranged about the foot of the skirt.

The skirt and tunic are dart-fitted over the hips, and an inverted box plait at the center of the back takes care of the fullness in the latter. The artistic arrangement of the chiffon ruchings contributes significantly to the charming results.

Dressmaker Options

Veiling, Indian silk, cashmere, albatross, and crape cloth can be combined to create beautiful costumes. Louisine, a dull-finished, silky fabric, can be stylishly paired with crape to create modern fashion.

Ladies’ Evening Blouse or Bodice

The current design of the elegant evening blouse is remarkable due to its effective color scheme. The blouse is made of silk in a trendy shade of rose pink, combined with cream chiffon, and decorated with rich Russian lace. The back of the blouse has slight pleats at the bottom, which are drawn well to the center, whereas the fronts are attractively gathered at the lower edge and pouch. A fanciful bertha in two sections follows the upper edge of the blouse, which has a round outline at the back but is shaped to form a V in the front. A soft drapery enhances the quaint simplicity of the mode arranged around the neck and extends between the front edges of the blouse to the lower edge, where it softly pouches. A large chiffon bow is tacked at the bust, and the blouse is made over a fitted lining. The sleeve is elbow length and short enough to display a drooping puff of chiffon arranged on the close-fitting lining to give the effect of an undersleeve. It is a two-piece style and fancifully shaped at the lower edge. A wrinkled ribbon belt encircles the blouse and is softly knotted at the left side.

Dressmaker Options

Velour épinglé, a luxurious silk with a satin finish, can be combined beautifully with tucked or plain mousseline or chiffon to create a fashionable look. Lace or velvet ribbon can be used for trimming. For an elegant evening blouse, a jeweled net over taffeta with lace bands can be used for decoration.

Ladies’ Five-Gored Skirt

Ladies' five-gored skirt with a short sweep, featuring a five-gored over-skirt with an inverted box-plait at the back. The skirt can be made with either a conventional or a decided dip at the top.

For this particular skirt, Indian silk was chosen as the material, with lace appliqué and silk plaiting used for decoration. The unique feature of the design is the overskirt that adds character to the skirt. The skirt is fitted over the hips with a smooth five-gored style, with darts on each side.

At the back, it is laid in an inverted box plait. The overskirt has a fancy pointed outline at the bottom and is short enough to reveal a silk plaiting arranged about the foot of the skirt.

At the top, the skirt is smoothly fitted with darts on each side, and the fullness at the back is collected in gathers. The skirt is of sweep length, and it is characterized by the fashionable dip at the top in front. The lower edge measures about three and a half yards in medium sizes.

Dressmaker Options

An elegant skirt suitable for formal occasions can be created using crimson crepe de Chine adorned with Persian bands, which can also be made from the same material.

Other fabrics such as Henrietta, cashmere, nun's vailing, albatross, Lansdowne, voile, taffeta, and satin can also be used for this project. Embellishments such as spangled or jeweled bands, ribbon, lace insertion, or folds can be added for decoration.

163 T Ladies Fashionable Mourning Skirt and Russian Blouse

This elegant costume can be further enhanced by simply disposing of the crape folds. The blouse is made of dull-finished black taffeta and features one of the current Russian styles.

The wide right front has tucks that prettily dispose of the fullness to yoke depth, and it is gathered at the waistline with the left front, puffing out fashionably. The back has only slight fullness at the bottom, drawn close to the center.

Additionally, the neck and bishop sleeve are completed by a standing collar and straight cuff with pointed overlapping ends, respectively. The skirt has a unique shape, and in this instance, black Henrietta was used in the development.

Dressmaker Options

When it comes to making mourning gowns, some standard materials include cashmere, dull-finished woolens, crape cloth, albatross, and nun’s-vailing. For a stylish skirt, Imperial serge with machine-stitching can be used for the finish, and the blouse can be made of soft Indian silk.

Ladies’ Russian Blouse

A beautiful and stylish Russian blouse designed for women. The blouse is made of blue French flannel and decorated with Russian embroidery bands. It features a slightly gathered fullness in the lower part of the broad back and is seamed to the fronts under the arms to keep it perfectly smooth.

The right front of the blouse has more expansive fullness than the left, which is taken up in small tucks at each side of the center. Shirrings regulate the fullness at the waistline of both fronts. The tucks extend to pointed yoke depth, but gathers may be used instead if preferred.

The blouse closes on the left side, with a pointed strap applied on the overlapping edge of the right front that extends to the bust. The one-seam bishop sleeve is completed with a wristband having a pointed overlapping end, and the ends of the collar and belt are shaped to match.

The blouse is arranged over a short lining closed at the center of the front and consists of plain backs and dart-fitted fronts. The design is comfortable, fashionable, and attractive, perfect for any occasion.

Dressmaker Options

Brilliantine, serge, lady's-cloth, and India silk are all great materials to make blouses that are both elegant and practical. You can add bands of all-over embroidery or any contrasting material that is braided or machine-stitched for decoration. For a practical blouse, you can use Reseda green fine French flannel and add white embroidered silk bands for decoration.

Ladies Skirt

The ladies' Skirt, Closed at the Left Side, is a versatile design. It features a front gore that extends to the Belt and Two Circular portions Seamed to a Yoke at the Sides and Back. The top can be styled with a Conventional or a Decided Dip, while the bottom can be a Round or Short-Sweep Length, allowing for endless creative possibilities.

The 'sheath-like adjustment over the hips' is a design feature that enhances the fit and silhouette of the skirt. It creates a sleek, streamlined look, while the dip at the top of the front adds visual interest. This skirt, made of gray cloth and finished with rows of machine stitching, is closed above the left side front seam.

The construction of the skirt is meticulous. It comprises a front gore that extends to the belt and two circular sections that are joined to a smooth yoke. The fullness at the back is laid in an under-folded box pleat, ensuring a flattering fit and elegant drape.

The yoke shapes a point at the lower edge of the back, and each lower front corner and the dip may be slight or very decided, as preferred.

The mode may be round or short-sweep length and ripples attractively toward the foot. In the medium sizes, the skirt measures about three yards and one-half.

Dressmaker Options

When it comes to fabric options, the sky's the limit. Broadcloth, Venetian or covert cloth, serge, Cheviot, and all tailor fabrics, vailing, cashmere, etamine, drap d’été, etc., are all suitable for developing the mode. Each fabric choice can bring a unique character to the design, sparking your creativity and imagination.

Based on the Article "Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 423 to 437 Inclusive," in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LVI, No. 4, October 1900, p. 435, 445, 447, 450, 453, 455-457, 459, 462-463.