House of Zimmermann: Parisian Fashion Designer of Elegance and Ocean Travel Influence (1909–1930s)
Coral Taffeta Blouse Jacket with Pompadour Flowers and a Pleated White Tulle Skirt with Coral Pink Silk Trim. Création Zimmermann. Photo par Talbot. Le Petit Mois Supplément illustré de la Revue des Français, 25 June 1912. | GGA Image ID # 2186def662
📖 Review and Summary
The House of Zimmermann, active in the early 20th century, was renowned for its originality, practicality, and refinement. Unlike some Parisian couturiers who catered only to the elite, Madame Zimmermann created garments with broad appeal for women of various sizes while maintaining high artistic standards.
This article highlights Zimmermann’s creative use of fabrics—taffeta, moiré, mousseline de soie, broché silk—and embellishments like jet bugles, cabochons, and Pompadour floral motifs. Her evening gowns, afternoon dresses, and street costumes reflect both classic Parisian elegance and an openness to international influences, including Turkish and Russian caftan-inspired styles.
For teachers and students, the page offers a case study in how fashion bridged tradition and modernity, with Zimmermann introducing flowing lines and draped silhouettes that matched the new lifestyles of women in the 1910s–1930s.
For genealogists, the page provides cultural context: these garments were exactly the types of dresses worn by first-class and second-class passengers aboard ocean liners, often recorded in fashion notes published in *Theatre Magazine or European illustrated journals.
For historians, Zimmermann’s inclusion in French and American fashion publications shows the global reach of Paris couture, strengthened by transatlantic travel.
📌 Quick Facts
Designer: Madame Zimmermann
Active Period: ca. 1909–1930s
Known For: Original yet practical couture, city dresses, evening gowns, and travel-ready ensembles
Design Traits: Ruffles, flowing tunics, caftan-inspired lines, bold use of jet embellishments
Ocean Travel Relevance: Advertised internationally (e.g., in *The Bulletinof the American Women’s Club in Paris, 1930), ensuring her fashions reached transatlantic travelers and expatriates
Clientele: Parisian society women, American tourists, and expatriates
Gown of Black Cashmere de Soie, Trimmed With the Fashionable Jet Bugles and Cabochons. Made by La Maison Zimmermann. Hat of Black Crin With Ostrich Plumes Made by Eliane of Paris. (The Theatre Magazine, April 1909) | GGA Image ID # 2357d3750c
THE FASHION DESIGNER (Translated from the French)
No great fashion house can boast of always creating the prettiest models of the season. The spirit of fashion blows where it will, and its whim brings inspiration sometimes here, sometimes there. It is good that this is the case and that a fruitful rivalry always keeps our interpreters of feminine beauty on their toes. A patient and impartial examination allows us today to award the palm to Madame Zimmerman, at least concerning city dresses. The outfit reproduced here consists of a coral taffeta blouse jacket with Pompadour flowers and a pleated white tulle skirt with coral pink silk trim. Last month, we noted the definitive entry of the panier into fashion. Now, ruffles are making their appearance. At first, they justified their resemblance to the Greek tunic. They are becoming bolder. And how can we not let them? This broken line is so clear and graceful in design. Let us also note that they do not contradict modern aesthetics. Today, we love the woman — and we will undoubtedly love her for a long time — tall and slender. The edge of the ruffle, which winds around the body like a garland, elongates it but without monotony. And the jacket gives firmness to the bust while preserving its true proportions exactly.
LE COUTURIER
Aucune grande maison ne peut se flatter de créer toujours les plus jolis modèles de la saison. L’esprit de la mode souffle où il veut et son caprice apporte l’inspiration tantôt ici, tantôt là. Il est bon qu’il en soit ainsi et qu’une féconde rivalité tienne toujours en haleine nos interprètes de la beauté féminine- Un patient et impartial examen nous permet aujourd'hui de décerner la palme à Madame Zimmerman, tout au moins en ce qui concerne les robes de ville. La toilette reproduite ici se compose d’une jaquette blouse en taffetas corail à fleurettes pompadour et d’une jupe en tulle plissé blanc avec des lisérés de soie rose corail. Nous avions signalé le mois dernier l’entrée définitive dans la mode du panier.Voici maintenant les volants qui font à leur tour leur apparition. Ils ont d’abord prétexté de leur ressemblance avec la tunique grecque. Ils s’enhardissent Et comment ne pas les laisser faire? Cette ligne brisée est d'un dessin si net et si gracieux : Remarquons d'ailleurs qu’ils ne contredisent nullement l’esthétique moderne. Nous aimons aujourd'hui la femme — et nous l’aimerons sans doute longtemps — grande et mince. Le bord du volant qui s’enroule autour du corps comme une guirlande l’allonge mais sans monotonie. Et la jaquette donne au buste de la fermeté tout en conservant exactement ses vraies proportions.
Splendid Evening Gown of Changeable Moire Vieled With Net Embroidered with Many Colored Round Beads. The Draping of the Corsage is Unusually Graceful and Effective. Made by Zimmermann, Paris. (The Theatre Magazine, March 1910) | GGA Image ID # 235630c073
Street Costume of Cherry Silk Crepon With Embroideries in Cherry and Gold, and Naval Arrangement of Crepon Buttons Framed in Black Velvet. An Elegant Creation of Zimmermann, Paris. Pboto by Felix. (The Theatre Magazine, June 19190) | GGA Image ID # 2356493564
Exquisite Afternoon Gown of Heliotrop Cashemere de Soie, Veiled With Changeable Gray Mousseline de Soie. The Novel Tunic Is Edged With Fox, Dyed to Match the Mouseline, While the Corsage Is of Silver Lace, Vied With Mouseline. by Zimmermann, Paris. Photo by Felix. (The Theatre Magazine, January 1910) | GGA Image ID # 235617199f
Gleanings Here and There in the Field of Fashion: Zimmerman
We are scarcely yet in the transition period from winter styles, Madame Zimmermann writes me, "but even now I can tell you that we shall come back to soft clinging effect for the summer. To me at least woman is so much more charming and pretty in long lines blouse then ever one will at once jump to the conclusion that it is that ugly affair with a lot of overhanging fulness at the waistline in the center front.
And that is not at all the idea of the best French models, nor what the really smart American women are wearing. What then am I to do? Why not call it the caftan, then. That is a Turkish and Persian as well as a Russian garment, and one finds evidences of the ideas contained in the caftan of these different nations in the best of the new styles. It also gives the designers more leeway.
Gown of Changeable Taffeta Covered with the New Printed Filet Net and Trimmed With Taffeta Pleatings. Made by Zimmermann, Paris. (The Theatre Magazine, May 1910) | GGA Image ID # 2355264c89
Monthly Fashion Nuggets from New York and Paris: Zimmermann
A Parisian model that is an excellent example of the stoic has recently been made by the Maison Zimmermann for a well-known society woman. This is of black cachemir de soie, with the wide panel front and back made of bugle jets studded with immense cabochons of cut jet.
The corsage and cap sleeves are also ornamented with cut jet cabochons. Particular note should be taken of this cap sleeve with the long unlined undersleeve, as I am told this is the very latest idea, and one which is only just beginning to be talked about.
Madame Zimmermann, the charming head of this establishment, sends me word that she will be glad to welcome any of the readers of the Theatre who may be in Paris this summer, and I am sure that they will benefit by her excellent advice.
1930 Advertisement by Zimmermann, Couturier, 10 Rou des Pyramides, Paris. (The Bulletin by American Women's Club of Paris, Inc.May 1930) | GGA Image ID # 2356605b5d
Parisian Fashion Notes of the Monthly: Zimmermann
Madame Zimmermann is a most charming woman of the utmost refinement, whose models show a decided originality combined with practicality. She told me one day when I remarked that her mannequins were so much larger than those employed by other dressmakers, "Yes, I want my customers to see exactly how the gowns will look on them, and as there are more women of medium and large figure than of the slender, not to say attenuated, form, I consider it wiser to select mannequins of the average figure." Therein she certainly showed her good sense.
Handsome Evening Gown of Yellow Broché Silk With Tunic of Embroidered Lace, Showing the Tendency to Flowing Drapery. Made by Zimmermann, Paris. Photo by Felix. (The Theatre Magazine, December, 1909) | GGA Image ID # 23582014dd
📘 Brief Dictionary of Terms
Pompadour Flowers: Floral motifs inspired by Madame de Pompadour, often embroidered or printed.
Taffeta: Crisp, smooth fabric often used for gowns and jackets.
Moiré: Fabric with a rippled, water-like appearance.
Mousseline de Soie: Lightweight, sheer silk similar to chiffon.
Broché Silk: Rich silk with raised, woven designs.
Bugle Beads: Long glass beads used for decoration.
Cabochons: Rounded, polished gems or beads without facets.
Caftan: Long, flowing garment of Middle Eastern or Russian origin, adapted into Parisian fashion.
✨ Most Engaging and Educational Highlights
Inclusivity of Sizes: Zimmermann deliberately used mannequins of medium and larger figures, recognizing the needs of everyday women—remarkably progressive for her time.
International Flair: Her caftan-inspired gowns show how non-European traditions influenced Paris couture.
Ocean Travel Connection: The 1930 advertisement in the American Women’s Club *Bulletindemonstrates her appeal to expatriates and transatlantic passengers.
Artistic Use of Fabrics: Flowing mousseline, taffeta, and lace illustrate Paris fashion’s delicate craftsmanship, seen in garments women might wear for ocean liner dinners or promenades.
🪡 Design Innovations
- Use of ruffles and draped lines to elongate the silhouette.
- Combination of practical tailoring with luxurious ornamentation.
- Adaptation of traditional garments (caftans, tunics) for modern couture.
- Emphasis on movement and flowing drapery, ideal for travel and social events.
🖼️ Noteworthy Images
Coral Taffeta Blouse Jacket with Pompadour Flowers (1912) – Image ID #2186def662. A vibrant, springlike ensemble blending French elegance with playful motifs.
Black Cashmere de Soie Gown with Jet Beads (1909) – Image ID #2357d3750c. Perfect example of evening glamour.
Splendid Evening Gown of Moiré and Beads (1910) – Image ID #235630c073. Illustrates Zimmermann’s mastery of draping.
Cherry Silk Crepon Street Costume (1910) – Image ID #2356493564. An elegant travel-friendly ensemble.
1930 Advertisement (Paris) – Image ID #2356605b5d. Shows Zimmermann’s enduring appeal to international women’s clubs.
🎓 Essay Prompts for Students (Grades 8–12)
1. Fashion & Inclusivity: How did Zimmermann’s choice to design for women of varied body types challenge early 20th-century fashion norms?
2. Ocean Travel Connection: In what ways did ocean liner travel help spread Zimmermann’s fashion influence beyond Paris?
3. Cultural Influence: How do Zimmermann’s caftan-inspired designs reflect cultural exchange in fashion?
4. Fashion & Identity: What do Zimmermann’s designs reveal about women’s changing roles in society during 1909–1930?
5. Fashion in Family History: How might Zimmermann’s gowns help genealogists identify photos of women from this era?
📚 How to Cite This Page
Chicago Style
Gjenvick-Gjønvik Archives. “House of Zimmermann – Parisian Fashion Designer.” *GG Archives*. Last modified September 17, 2025. [https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html](https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html)
APA Style
Gjenvick-Gjønvik Archives. (1909–1930s). *House of Zimmermann – Parisian Fashion Designer*. GG Archives. Retrieved September 17, 2025, from [https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html](https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html)
MLA Style
Gjenvick-Gjønvik Archives. “House of Zimmermann – Parisian Fashion Designer.” *GG Archives*, 1909–1930s. Web. Accessed 17 Sept. 2025. [https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html](https://www.ggarchives.com/OceanTravel/Fashions/FashionHouses/Zimmermann-ParisianFashionDesigner.html)
Bibliography
"Chez Madame: Le Couturier," in Supplément illustré de la Revue des Français, 25 June 1912:15.
"Gleanings Here and There in the Field of Fashion: Zimmerman," in The Theatre Magazine Advertiser, June 1910:8.
"Monthly Fashion Nuggets from New York and Paris: Zimmermann, The Theatre Magaine Advertiser, April 1909:16.
"Parisian Fashion Notes of the Monthly: Zimmermann," The Theatre Magazine Advertisers, November 1909:12.