Ladies Attractive Bodices 182 T & 183 T - 1900
Ladies' Jacket-Basque No. 182 T
The fancy Court sleeves give a distinctive touch to this novel jacket-basque, for which black velvet was used here in connection with white and light-blue silk.
The trimming, which consists of tinsel braid and gilt buttons, is artistically arranged, and adds a becoming note of color. The jacket is smoothly adjusted and shows to advantage the full, shallow back-yoke and pouching fronts.
A high standing collar, over which is worn a stock in similar outline, is at the neck, and a shaped belt encircles the waist, which is cut to give the popular Hebe bust, an effect that is now so much sought.
The sleeves are in Court style, the upper sleeve extending to the elbow, where it is finished with a turn-back cuff and separated from the drooping lower portion by a full puff. The whole is mounted on a two-seam lining, and the wristband closes invisibly.
Periwinkle-blue taffeta and Chantilly lace will develop attractively by the mode. Irish poplin and satin Liberty with bands of Russian or Cluny lace will be stylish.
Broadcloth in one of the pastel hues in combination with silk mull and decorated with velvet baby-ribbon and fancy silk cord will be found very satisfactory.
The pattern, which is No. 4475 and costs 9d. or 20 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is pictured differently on page 603.
Ladies' Basque Blouse No. 183 T
Black velvet trimmed with white lace appliqué, and light silk are here united in the charming blouse.
The jaquette, is short and is wide apart at the front, and the blouse is characterized by a plaited hack and full pouching fronts that produce the Juno bust effect which is now the popular fancy.
A high stock worn over a standing collar and a fancy belt finish the neck and blouse, respectively.
The full gathered sleeves are very fanciful, being shaped to accommodate deep cap and cuff facings that accord with the jaquette in material and decoration. At the wrist, the sleeve forms a point that extends prettily over the hand.
Fancy taffeta associated with Cluny lace will reproduce the mode handsomely. Peau de cygne and foulard, with velvet baby-ribbon and quilling of mousseline for trimming will also be attractive. A blouse of blue crêpe de Chine and ecru lace has a stock and belt of Liberty ribbon.
The pattern, which is No. 4502 and costs 9d. or 29 cents, is in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure, and is illustrated again on page 605.
Ladies’ Jacket-Basque No. 4475
Ladies’ Jacket-Basque No. 4475, to be made with Fancy Court Sleeves or with Plain Sleeves.
This Basque is illustrated on page 603, and also at figure No. 182 T in this magazine.
The fancy Court sleeves are a distinguishing feature of the mode, which is shown made of Yale-blue Lansdowne associated with white silk and decorated with narrow black velvet ribbon and beading through which ribbon is run.
The jacket has a smooth hack that is shaped to display a full shallow yoke, and the fronts, in similar outline at the top, have rounding lower corners and flare stylishly over full fronts.
The Basque proper is shaped to have the fashionable Marie Antoinette slip in front, the lower edge being completed with a narrow belt, and a conventional standing collar over which is worn ä separate stock finishes the neck.
The fancy Court sleeves consist of a short one-seam sleeve that terminates at the elbow, where it is completed with a pointed turn-back cuff, and a close-fitting two-seam lining on which is mounted a deep and a shallow puff that droop at the outside of the arm and are finished with a wide wristband.
If desired, a plain two-seam sleeve may be substituted, as shown in the small illustrations.
An attractive blouse may be made of mauve peau de gant combined with heliotrope silk mull and decorated with appliqué lace. The mode is equally adaptable for Liberty silk, voile or cloth, and may be decorated with insertion, gimp, piping or bias folds of contrasting satin.
We have pattern No. 4475 in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust measure.
To make the Basque for a lady of medium size, requires a yard and seven-eighths of material thirty-six inches wide, with two yards and five-eighths of goods twenty inches wide for the stock, full fronts, back-yoke, wristbands and lower puffs.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice No.4502
Ladies’ Basque-Blouse or Bodice, with Jaquette. (To be made with Fancy or Plain Sleeves.)
On page 605, and at figure No. 183 T of this magazine, this blouse is illustrated (top Image, right side of this page).
Blue foulard is charmingly combined with ecru all-over lace in making the blouse, with chiffon plaitings, beading and black velvet baby-ribbon for garniture. The full gathered fronts puff out in the new way and close at the center, and the back has slight plaited fulness at the bottom.
A modish jaquette is a distinguishing feature of the design and is adjusted with shoulder and under arm seams and shaped to reveal prettily the fronts.
The sleeve is in full one-seam style gathered at the top and bottom and shaped to reveal a deep cap and cuff facing, the latter extending in a point over the hand; it is made over a two-seam lining that may be used for a plain sleeve, if desired.
A standing collar highest at the back, over which a stock in similar outline is worn, gives neck completion, and the blouse, which is made over a smooth lining displays the becoming dip in front and the fashionable Juno bust effect. A belt of ribbon gives the final touch.
Peau de cygne — a new silk having a silvery sheen — will combine well with Russian lace, and bands of the same lace may be used to trim.
Crepe de Chine or crepe de Paris in any of the beautiful pastel tints will reproduce the blouse satisfactorily, with Cluny or Irish point lace for garniture.
A handsome theatre blouse is of light-blue taffeta and black silk appliqué, with black velvet ribbon about the neck and waist.
We have pattern No. 4502 in seven sizes for ladies from thirty to forty-two inches, bust. measure.
To make the Basque-waist for a lady of medium size, requires three yards and three-fourths of goods twenty inches wide, with a yard and seven-eighths of material in the same width for the jaquette, stock and for covering the sleeve-facings.
Price of pattern, 9d. or 20 cents.
“Descriptions of Figures in Colors, Tints, Etc., Shown on First Page of Cover and Pages 571 to 591 Inclusive,” in The Delineator: An Illustrated Magazine of Literature and Fashion, Paris-London-New York-Toronto: The Butterick Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. LXI, No. 5, November 1900, p. 571, 591-592, 603, 605, 609, 611-612.
Editor’s Note: Some terminology used in the description of women's clothing during the 1800s and early 1900s has been changed to reflect more modern terms. For example, a women's "Toilette" -- a form of costume or outfit has an entirely different common meaning in the 21st century. Typical terms applied to "toilette" include outfit, ensemble, or costume, depending on context.
Note: We have edited this text to correct grammatical errors and improve word choice to clarify the article for today’s readers. Changes made are typically minor, and we often left passive text “as is.” Those who need to quote the article directly should verify any changes by reviewing the original material.
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